Vietnam’s Bahnar ethnic people believe the world of the dead is exactly the same as that of the living.
Bahnar people’s cemetery ground resembles a village of the living.
Visitors to B’Yang Village, Kong Chro Town, Kong Chro District, Gia lai Province, often mistake the burial place of the Bahnar people, for a village of the living.
Dinh Chrum, head of the hamlet shared, “Bahnar people always believe that the dead have a life of their own. Since ancient times, it has been a traditional practice for Bahnar people to build a shelter for the grave and prepare for the deceased a life that resembles one of the living, from Rong houses (communal houses), plants, cross-bows, looms, to bowls and plates. B’Yang Village has even set aside an area of 4 hectares with the belief that the dead also need land where they can build their homes and till the fields.”
Like Kinh people (the majority of the Vietnamese population), a few times a year, Bahnar people pay respects and burn incense for loved ones who have passed away. The final resting place (often a wooden house) is only built, in place of the grave’s shelter, after the “Leaving-the-grave” (Le Bo Ma) ceremony, the last festivity to see off the deceased to another world. People with less money have to build a smaller shelter.
During Le Bo Ma, villagers often gather at the cemetery ground to sing, dance, have a feast and sleep at the place overnight on the first day. On the second day, they would sleep at the village’s Rong house, and on the third day, close relatives are to sleep at the deceased ones family’s home.
In the past, to mourn for the dead, many of the villagers would hit their head repetitively on a column or wooden wall, and not stop until they bleed.
Bahnar people\'s burial place
Glancing over the Bahnar people’s cemetery grounds, one could easily mistaken it for a small village situated next to the Ba River. The grave houses here are all meticulously decorated and it is easy to tell from each of these grave houses it whether its owner had been rich or poor. Some had their roof made out of steel panels as a result of urbanisation.
Surrounding these tombs are plants grown by the people of the village such as bananas and sugarcane. In the front yard, there would be a jar and water as well as a water dipper. Before the house is an unfinished burning wood stove. Inside the house has all the items necessary for everyday life such as bowls, baskets, and dried wood logs. A woman’s house would have a loom, while that of a man would have a cross-bow and arrows.
In order for the deceased to have a rich and comfortable life, the Bahnar people often carve wooden statues resembling human beings, birds, or animals to accompany them. These statues are also often carved according to the deceased ones liking and occupation when they were alive, and everything must go in pairs following the concept of yin and yang, even statues of the animals.
Amid dozens of tombs in this cemetery ground, the 20 square-metre grave house of Dinh Gliu, former head of Kong Chro Town’s Culture Board, stands out as the highest and most elaborate structure. Four main pillars are decorated with 4 symbolic pairs of tusks, along with the two highest decorated poles in the cemetery. At the front and back of the house are 2 pairs of couples, one in soldier’s uniform and one in modern clothing. A cross-bow used for hunting is also placed inside the house.
Chrum added, “All the things that the deceased used in life will be brought to their final resting place. The living are responsible for providing a prosperous life for the dead.”
Decorated poles are thought to help the spirits to go to heaven.
The family who built this “house” couldn’t afford an elaborate structure.
The cemetery village has been urbanised.
Things that the deceased used in their life are brought to the the tomb.
