The northern highlands

On a chilly winter day in December, we were climbing all morning, up and over rocky slopes in Dong Van Highlands that seemed to stretch for an eternity. When we finally made it to the top, we were rewarded with a literally breath-taking view of the valleys below.

House of Vuong's family.

Terraced rice fields and houses nestled under high moutains.

Nho Que River flows under Ma Pi Leng peak.

Dong Van highland lies over 100km north-east of Ha Giang Town in Ha Giang Province, in northern Vietnam, which is more than 300 kilometres from Hanoi. It has an average height of 1,000 – 1,600m above sea level and is home to many ethnic groups such as the Tay, Nung, Mong and Hoa.

The highlands cover four districts; Dong Van, Meo Vac, Yen Minh and Quan Ba. Not only are they they the highest land in Ha Giang, Dong Van Highland is also the most popular site-seeing place in this mountainous province. Well-known for the stunning natural scenery and rich culture, the highland is also one of the most difficult destinations to reach in Vietnam due to its geographical location. This adds only more inspiration for adventure-lovers to visit. Thousands of visitors are attracted to this highland year-round.

There are six “heritage” sites that should be seen here. One of these is Vuong’s House in Sa Phin Commune, Dong Van District; a national heritage featuring unique architecture. The remaining five sites are Lung Cu Flag Tower, Dong Van Ancient Street (in Dong Van District), Ma Pi Leng Historical Relic, Khau Vai Love Market (in Meo Vac District) and Nui Doi (in Quan Ba District).

Dong Van highland is also known as the Sa Pa of Ha Giang because of its cool climate. Indeed, it has to be one of the few places in Vietnam where you can walk during midday in the middle of the summer sunshine comfortably! However, we came here to experience the winter which is freezing to the bone. I thought of the terrible winter three years ago when thousands of cows and buffalos in this region were reported to have died because of the cold snap. A local guide told us that this winter was much more pleasant. He also advised us to return here in the spring or summer to see a different Ha Giang. “Spring is really a joy, with all the tri-coloured peach blossoms,” he described, “And in summer, the highlands are full of different colours of green cabbage and golden terraced rice fields nestling under the mountains."

More or less, we can also imagine that scene. It is untainted by modern life.

Along with the natural sites, local people also play a big part in the popularity of this area among tourists. We were lucky to get the chance to see a Sunday market in Dong Van. The markets are the perfect place to people-watch.

Carrying heavy vegetable baskets on their backs, young girls and old women in their best and brightest dresses flock to the market to sell their goods and socialize. They contrast sharply with the men who only wear black or dark-coloured clothes.

To get to the market on time, many sellers have to start their journey at midnight. However, there were no sign of tiredness on the cheerful faces. We could only see the long dresses soaked through with dew.

“I rarely miss any market gathering because it is a chance for me to meet my friends,” a young Mong girl told us.

The girl went with her father who sold wine made from corn. She said he liked eating Thang co (a kind of soup cooked from horse meat). Life looks easy for Mong men at the stalls, who are most often seen getting drunk and lying on road sides while their wives take care of them until they can walk home.

Leaving the market, we drove to Lung Cu Flag Tower, the northernmost point in Vietnam. On the only road winding through the mountains to the tower, we were able to admire the scenery and touch the clouds. There are 286 steps to the foot of the tower and then another climb the top. It’s a long hike but worth the pain in your calves to see the view.

To preserve the natural beauty and develop tourism in this region, the Ministry of Culture, Sport and Tourism has held an international conference o­n building Dong Van Highland into a global geological park. So, just like our journey, it’s onwards and upwards for Ha Giang Province.